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| by Ellin Saltzman Morning of Day 8 (February 13). Big decisions to be made: the Ralph Lauren show is on Washington Street between Spring and Houston. I remember going there last September and it took a LONG time in a cab.
Of course the Principesa Saltzman wasn't sure of the route and spent all-too-long online trying to find the correct subway lines. Gave up, showered, coffees, returned to the uniform, and fought the large, rigid flurries blowing in my face en route to the subway number 6 line. The station agent told me to get off at Spring, which was a cinch. Of course, Washington Street is near the Hudson River. Good morning exercise. Ralph Lauren made the trip well worth it. POLO was the second show of the day (the first was at 9), the VIP and press were at 10, and retail was going to be at 11. Amazingly, every seat at my show was filled, and it wasn't with staff. POLO, a name that is synonymous with Ralph Lauren, has never had a women’s brand. Well, now it does. With lots of glory. It should be a real money maker for him. It is young, less expensive, spirited, Americana, Southwestern, Madison Avenue. It is fit for the young — there are many pieces that a sixteen-year-old could wear, many pieces that work for the twenty- to thirty-year-olds, and many pieces that work for the 40- to 60-year-olds. And yes, there are pieces that work for the over 60 crowd ... thank you very much! |
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| The collection opened with four sweet looks — very young. Then a great bright orange Shetland sweater (did you wear Shetland in college?) over a white shirt and great leather skirt. Then two great quilted RLX quilted tops in emerald and bright orange (over little black dresses). |
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| Kelly had a great tan fringe jacket over a patchwork shirt, and Lieve had a great shearling jacket, but the best backpack of all in leather and beacon wool (a great graduation gift). Angelika wore the same pattern in a cardigan. There was a perfect tweed jacket (ageless) shown with skinny leather pants (age depends on figure!), worn by Bridget. |
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| He showed a series of leather tops over sheer floral silks and dresses — the hippie keeps retuning this season and looks better and better as the eye adjusts. Polo has a black wool pinstripe suit; only rather than show it up tight, it was worn with a plaid flannel shirt. To go over pinstripes or whatever, he had a patchwork wool coat and a black one. And the tuxedo jacket went over black leather pants. I just read that POLO is going to be opening at 711 Fifth Avenue in September with a restaurant where La Côte Basque was. You know they will line up to eat and buy (or buy and eat) Great show and great news Ralph! |
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| RALPH LAUREN COLLECTION Spelled luxury and style and elegance. It is aspirational, but dreamy for all. To show the difference between Polo and Collection, the latter opened with ivory and pale pink in crepe, cashmere, and double faced wool. Karlie came out in a cream cashmere trench coat with a beret and a white cashmere silk boucle turtle neck. For fun chic she wore cream jodphurs and cream kid suede high top sneakers. Of course she was carrying a cream alligator Ricky bag. What elegance. Ralph showed high over-the-knee boot in gray kid suede with high high heels. Not for this weather. Although, they looked great with a grey Mongolian lamb coat. |
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| There were some great grey looks for day or night, one shoulder satin, a turtleneck over grey jersey skirt with big side slit to show off the pewter sandals. Some of his cashmeres reminded me of dreamy Halston cashmeres in the good times ... and that is tops. |
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| He used the color mauve. I confess to disliking that color, but even it looked rich and good, especially with a gazar ruffle as in the grey cashmere one on Dauphine. |
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| All the models looked beautiful, and their hair was perfection. A back-of-head pony tail which worked with the pale pink evening dresses and the pale greys and the beaded antique dress. All could be worn at Downton Abbey and right now! Hurrah and hugs to you Ralph ... |
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| CALVIN KLEIN Not going to bore you with more subway tales, but at the Times Square station waiting for the number 1 train, I asked two women and an attractive man, Mr. Brown, whether by any chance they were going to Calvin Klein. They looked at me like, "how did you know?" I of course said, "the all-black outfits." Thank God they worked for Calvin. Upon departing the station, Mr. Brown graciously helped me through the icy slush and when I arrived at the show, Suzy Menkes offered me a trip home. My lucky day. Francisco Costa's collection was all below the knee and all shown with wire lace utility boots, either tall or over the ankle. They would be perfect for today and I am sure many wished they had them, but with everything? He opened with a black mohair coat with pin closing and showed an ivory one again with pin closures. I admit I was not sitting up close and personal so cannot adequately describe the pin closings. |
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| He showed a super-shaped white wool short-sleeved dress and some textured or needle-punched shaped black dresses. He had some great multi-color coats in tweed or mandarin, orange or amber, or olive, and some striped cashmere sweaters or dresses to wear under them. |
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| Francisco closed on some dresses with "split waists," but I apologize for not being able to see the splits. Francisco, one day I would love to see the collection in person because I know the subway and the wet obstructed my view! |
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| MARC JACOBS used to start his collections very very late until he was read the riot act by a very powerful editor-in-chief. Now, he starts immediately on the dot. Tonight with rain and ice I figured it would take forever on the subway so left home an hour early. Suddenly three yellow cabs came cruising by and we hailed one who immediately took me to the armory at 26th and Lexington for the show.
It was my divine daughter Elizabeth who had been in town working, but I had not seen! What a great surprise. She was going back to London on an 11 PM flight. That made my night and my day, and alleviated the knowledge that someone had hacked into my AOL accounts, sent weird emails, and then cancelled my password and therefore closed me off from my emails (crisis mode). MARC JACOBS In this clean, clear everything-is-alright-with-the-world type setting I looked at the program. It had numbers and model's names but no description or information. Just 46 names.
The models all wore Nars makeup, totally washed out and pale, hence they all looked exactly alike. They had on jersey head bands and straight hair, walking around the 8 or 10 rows of seats. First they came out in uniform-like dressing, midcalf sheaths in white, or camel over long straight pants, all jersey. Then he showed some long jersey tunics in camel and white or other neutral combinations color blocked over matching skinny jersey pants also color blocked in weird ways. Some of the models not only had the jersey head bands but they had jersey chokers. |
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| There were two jackets of Mongolian lamb and and fabric, short motorcycle blousons. Following that he showed some all-over beaded and pucciesque-patterned tunic dresses and matching pants. Not my cup of tea, but I can think of many women who would happily wear them in Palm Beach or Southampton, if they are ever manufactured. He ended with some silk organza or gazar ruffled outfits. Very un-Mark, but perhaps proving that he too could design the common type collection. |
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| Wednesday, February 12th, Con't ZANG TOI Was it ironic that I left (Anna) Sui for Toi, or is it just amusing to me as I wrote a little ditty? Both are very taken with the 1930s, which must have been marvelously decadent in Shanghai. I was sitting with Harold Koda, the brains behind the Met Costume Institute. He is a true gentleman, scholar, and indeed a genius. |
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| The Museum is going to have a China exhibit in the near future. That should be wonderful. Zang's show opened with a 1930's glen plaid gangster trouser suit with silver fox stole thrown in, and in the luxe feel the suit was made of Loro Piana cashmere. Zang's menswear for her looks were very strong. He then entices with a brilliant jade green group, first introduced by a perfect black tunic of black wool and rayon. The jades were followed by the opiums (which I think were rose brocades), which work back into blacks and jade. |
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| One outstanding dress was a brilliant jade long silk taffeta empire gown. A true Empress look. In contrast is the brilliant jade ostrich feather mini pouf dress. Yes Zang designs for many generations and many countries. |
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He studied Bill Blass and how he knew his customers and how in the early days of Bill's career he went to the major stores and met their customers and sold sold sold. Zang is now doing the same thing, and he is one of the very few designers willing to do that. He knows his customers, sees how they live, understands their needs, and they fall in love with him and with his clothes. Sadly new designers are not doing that. Perhaps other pressures or budgets are getting them or the stores down. But wouldn't it make a big difference? Donna used to do it, so did Michael Kors. It is a great learning curve both for the designers and the stores. |
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| Click here for Ellin's Fashion Week Diary, Part 1. Click here for Ellin's Fashion Week Diary, Part 2. Click here for Ellin's Fashion Week Diary, Part 3. Click here for Ellin's Fashion Week Diary, Part 4. Click here for Ellin's Fashion Week Diary, Part 5. |