|
 |
|
| by Ellin Saltzman TAHARI Elie Tahari gave a very nice wearable presentation in his big Fifth Avenue boutique. I confer to having a problem with presentations. It seems many are there just to have a drink and to chit chat or network, therefore it is very difficult to really see the clothes. It is also difficult to photograph them.
Tahari had some great downs, leathers, coats, sweaters. A full wardrobe for women on the go. Well done Elie. You covered all the trends and injected some great new color. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| OSCAR DE LA RENTA Fortunately, I arrived ten minutes early for the show. Barbara Walters arrived ten minutes late and could not be seated. This was business the way it should be. On time and professional. I was seated with some terrific ladies one who had just lunched with DPC. Boaz Mazor, Oscar's top sales executive, had dinner plans with DPC last night.
Mr. de la Renta is scheduled to leave today to be the star of a fashion show in Miami in honor of Dr. Stephen Nimer at the Sylvester Comprehensive Cancer Center, part of the University of Miami Health System. The show will feature cancer patients walking the runway with their doctors, wearing Oscar de la Renta-designed clothes. What a fabulous gift from Oscar to a doctor who has gone from being his physician to being his physician and his friend. Oscar and Stephen Nimer are both magnificent people. The show opened with charcoal pinstripes combined with black chantilly lace appliqué in a peplum jacket over pinstripe trousers draped with a sable coat, and a pinstripe flannel jumpsuit with a charcoal mohair cat. It was tough chic, including the models all in short wigs, with Karlie leading the pack. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
| There were a great group of royal blue cashmere with Anabela and Manon and Bette in capes, sweaters and coats. Smashing was a chocolate cashmere hand knit cable sweater (wish wish list) with a raccoon collar over a grey flannel skirt. Note the alligator belt. He had some smashing hand knit sweaters, and some of his clients (the few that were invited to the show) were wearing them from past seasons. I know they will refresh their wardrobes. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| He had a great ivory chantilly lace blouse with black floral lace appliqué. For fun, there was a happy cardinal red and black houndstooth and lace suit. And a burgundy silk velvet dress paired with a burgundy mohair coat. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| There were some smashing gold beaded and embroidered gowns, and for the faint of heart the perfect black silk velvet dress (above). Karlie closed the show with a painted polka dot black tulle tiered ruffle gown. Perfect. Love you, Oscar. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Wednesday February 12 I just got an email from Variety that Sid Caesar had died. He lived a long. and I hope had a good life. He was very very funny. Okay, today is the day forMichael Kors, one of my personal all-time favorite designers. I have known him and loved him through some of his very tough business years, and am so excited with his incredible personal success. I will tell you that he has not changed one bit. He is still warm and cuddly and real and friendly. Michael opted to move his collection from the central Lincoln Center big stage to something more intimate and cozy. Well, the studios at 45 Varick Street do offer that, but they are also a nightmare to reach. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Last season I missed Calvin Klein when they showed there, so I timed my departure to 45 minutes before the show. Uber was right on time and he had his handy GPS to tell him the best route with the least traffic. It took 40 minutes and 16 seconds (Uber receipt) and cost $40, which is probably exactly what a yellow tab with tip would have cost. It is still a nightmare location because the traffic around Fulton Street and all others converge. Please let's give up that site! Tomorrow, if indeed it does storm, getting to Calvin Klein in that same location could be a very laughable occasion.
It is certainly less expensive — in this case really less expensive — as a very nice lady used her card as I was fumbling for mine in the bag with the hat, scarf, gloves and long orange scarf. Her name is Jenny Roberts and she deserves a big gold star.She is also the public relations director of POLOGEORGIS furs. They have made all of Michael’s furs for years, and very beautifully in a very sportswear style. Thank you Jenny! MICHAEL KORS With “California Dreaming’ (or is it dreamers?) playing, the scene was immediately defined. Indeed this collection of his was Big Sur, it was northern California hippie Michael Kors style. Haight-Ashbury grown sophisticated. As Michael called it, "The Big Easy." It was a collection of great pieces. Those in the know, or used to dressing that way, would understand what is happening in fashion now. It is no longer buying outfits. It is buying a piece and knowing what to do with it, or buying several pieces and knowing to experiment with them. Put them all on the floor or over your bed and see what goes with what for sure or for maybe. The thing that struck me about the collection was the total lack of color, but the mixtures of textures that make neutrals look so colorful. So on with the show. Look 1 on Carolyn was a “smudged" glen plaid coat over a chocolate mohair long pullover hip, belted with d-ring buckles over a mid-calf floral skirt in chiffon, which moves and does not look dowdy. What will take getting used to are the clunky shoes. He had some denim “culottes” under a fur coat, and if anyone can bring those back ... Michael can. They actually work, but with boots I think, or sandals in the summer. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Lisa was wearing a great hand knit sweater coat and matching long scarf. This Michael showed with suede boots. He showed a white peasant shirt under a chocolate sable coat with a denim pleated skirt, this was certainly urban chic combined with Big Sur dreaming. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Karmen(above, left) was in a sheer peasant blouse and skirt in “fil coupe,” reminding me of Yves Saint Laurent's gypsy days, but without the jewels. He had chocolate-fringed long suede jackets (above, center), some fringed bags, and a great chestnut chocolate aran sweater over a suede fringe skirt (above, right). Michael had cashmere sweat pants, cashmere peasant blouse, alpaca chubbies, alpaca hand knit luxurious pullovers, cashmere slouch pants, and suddenly some sheer dresses. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
| One of my favorite classic looks was Jac wearing a vanilla Melton double-breasted coat over a vanilla aran pullover and a faun-color suede fringed skirt followed by an ash gray aran knit big pullover shown with sequin culottes. He shows a long classic trench coat over bare charmeuse dress and a classic white silk georgette peasant blouse on Ming with black serge culottes. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| The music then turned to Jose Feliciano singing to the Mamas and the Papas’ “California Dreaming” as models came out in the soft printed peasant dresses and separates and long men’s jackets and Karlie looking great in some black lace. Karmen closed the show with black embroidered chantilly lace/chiffon and black serge pants. A collection of pieces, not outfits. Bravo Michael. Your dreaming is paying off. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Wednesday, February 12, 9:08 PM. I just finished with two shows, opened my mail, put my roast chicken and spinach on the table, poured myself a glass of rose, and turned on the Olympics! I admit it is hard to multitask, but I am trying. It is even less understandable as I am not a skier (wish I were) thus know nothing about form and even understand some of the lingo. It does mean that I am not sitting and trying to watch every turn and count every second.
A much loved designer by the models, the photographers, the editors, the art crowd, other designers, and anyone who is bright and artistic. She is trying to help with the movement to maintain the Garment Center in the city. As I have told you in the past she was once a stylist to some of the most famous photographers. And so, they all come out to cheer her. The show opened with Anna May Wong singing in Chinese, with clothes that were obviously Asian in feeling in ruby red, black, gold. The jewelry was made for Anna by "Erickson Beamon for Anna Sui." There are great bead chains with silk tassels. It was all ruby-colored furs, crepe tunics, jacquards, beaded jackets, burnout velvets. Sung Kee showed a black and gold burnout velvet cape over a matching burnout velvet top with black charmeuse tap pants. The next song (an old recording of "Dirty Laundry") was accompanied by a change of palette, forest green mongolian fur coat over black and forest striped dress. Hanne came out in a forest green botanical faille coat over a botanical crepe de chine long dress. Teal briefly followed the greens, again with great jewelry and accessories. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Sam entered the more modern world with black boucle tweed Chanel-like knits. Gradually we enter the age of Zelda and Scott, the Gatsby days. Anna designed some outfits that are perfect for modern days but could have been in the movies. There is chinoiserie, fringe, black, paisley, crochet black sweater coats, kimonos, sequins, and even fake fur with sequins and some fun leopards in fake fur or rabbit printed. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
| A blush outfit paved the way for the finale black and gold or black mongolian or black chiffon. Fei Fei closed the show in a long black velvet dress with beaded Phoenix. Well done, once again. A trip through the ages for all generations. I had the pleasure of sitting with Sandra Brandt and Ingrid Sischy, the ex Interview brains. We did not have enough time to really talk so I couldn't hear all the gossip. Maybe I will be with them at Marc tomorrow? |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Click here for Ellin's Fashion Week Diary, Part 1. Click here for Ellin's Fashion Week Diary, Part 2. Click here for Ellin's Fashion Week Diary, Part 3. Click here for Ellin's Fashion Week Diary, Part 4. |