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Fashion Week 2014: Day 1 and before

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by Ellin Saltzman


SLUSH RUSH ICE NICE PRICE
Fashion Week: Day 1 and before

Can it be contagious? Does being a member of NYSD creative team make you susceptible?

My diagnosis — " torpor."
I have felt so weird since January 2, 2014. Perhaps I caught Blair Sabol’s“don’t get around much anymore” or her Netflix addiction? I know I have David Patrick Columbia’s " torpor" only until he diagnosed it. I thought it was a touch of vertigo and great lethargy.

This winter was to have been my renaissance, or my confronting of age.  I had planned to learn new things, to study, to start doing some good deeds. I had also planned to get myself in shape by taking more spin classes at flywheel, by returning to exhale core fusion after a thirty-year absence (or so it seems), to play as much indoor tennis as possible, to really work out with Sean my beloved trainer (over 25 years together). 

I was also determined to really learn bridge but now realize you can never totally really learn bridge, but you can improve (possibly?). I was a super bridge player in college. There were no conventions except Blackwood; duplicate did not exist. Now I am fortunately taking a course at the Regency Whist Club. I am not a member (might not make the grade) but am allowed to take lessons.  I also play bridge on my computer. Not as often as I play “words with friends,” which is a horrible addiction. The latter can be painful. I lost to my 13-year-old grandson in London.
Regency Whist Club, watercolor.
This game is very difficult. Why did I wait until now to really want to learn this? Why did I wait til my latter years to learn golf? Can I blame my career, my marriage, my children ... for not having the time? In golf you discover you have split personalities ... your good twin comes out one day and then the terrible twin appears the next ... or they both show up and fight from hole to hole!!!

So what happened? I went on an exercise binge one very snowy weekend.  I overdid it, hurt my neck, and now I have vertigo. I had to be walked home from class as I was too dizzy (just wait til you read my reviews ... chalk some up to dizziness). That ended my “getting in shape” moment. A friend said to me “I have no sympathy for you. You are trying to do things you could do thirty years ago. You are not that young and will get hurt!”

However, I do love going to the movies (unlike my friend Blair). I even love the greasy popcorn, and do permit myself to buy it from time to time. I can go to the movies alone, and I do, often. This has been an incredible season for film.

Now to the shows. It is winter and showing next winter’s clothes. So that is easy. You can imagine yourself or your reader wearing those. But can you? Yesterday I saw a show with some absolutely fabulous Manolo Blahnik over the ankle high high heel boots.  Since I had to jump slush and puddles to get to the show I wondered if those Blahnik boots would work?

My uniform for the shows.
This season, many designers opted out of the Lincoln Center Mercedes-Benz show center, which has become more like a circus. These designers are very talented and their shows are very important. Sadly none of them are reachable via public transportation. They are, in the warmer weather, but not when it is below freezing and icy and snowy (and slushy). It will be amusing, but I apologize in advance if I bitch, which I shall try to minimize because I am so very lucky to be attending the shows.

Friends ask what I wear to the shows. Since I am not going to be seen, but rather to work, I no longer feel the need to show off, or wear something new from each major designer. Therefore I dress as I have for the past six weeks in the cold: black leggings (sometimes over black silk long underwear from L.L.Bean), black silk turtle neck underwear top under a black tunic-length cashmere sweater, long black cashmere gloves, black knit cap (think Ali MacGraw in “Love Story”), black cashmere scarf, black down Moncler hooded jacket or black down (brand new) Prada long coat ... and the very best shearling-lined knee-high black Celt boots from Cornwall (I bought those many years ago in London and wore only occasionally until this year).

If it warms up I may change to black pants, white shirts, black crew neck, and flat-soled ankle boots!

I forgot to add one thing! Sunglasses to battle the sun and the wind. Last week I had to go to a new dentist. It was very cold and my nose was running and my eyes were tearing. I was wearing contact lenses. The office gave me some forms to fill in, which I could not read. I told the receptionist to which she said, “you have a contact lens on your right cheek and another on your left!!!"

Wednesday, February 5

The hair for Lisa Perry's show — simple and long (and good for staying warm!).
LISA PERRY
Despite the slush it certainly was easy enough for me to attend the Lisa Perry show. Her store is directly across the street from where I live! Thus to get in practice I left a very humiliating bridge lesson, and trudged from 67th to 77th and Madison. The streets were clear of snow, and I thanked each workman shoveling to make them so. Crossing street corners was hysterical — thankfully they had not iced over as of yet. Instead: deep slush. I decided this would be my new exercise class!

Lisa Perry's collection was short, sweet, cheery. Her models were leggy and leggier. Frederic Fekkai had done simple long hair. They looked great. Lisa's clothes were full and slightly tented. There were only 20 pieces. All were shown with some smashing Blahnik over the ankle very high heel boots in a cross banded design of white with black or grey with black.

They would not have worked in our present weather however. Some of the clothes were heavy felt, making them puff, as in a great black dirndl skirt. The colors were black, emerald green, bright purple, grey, and silver. There was also a pale "maze," which either was off-white or pale-pale yellow, always with black flocking.
Lisa Perry Fall 2014 ...
There was a great silver foil sweatshirt over grey cigarette pants; a super purple cocoon coat over point desprit black top with black pants; and some very v-neck front or back full dresses.

Lisa herself was wearing an empire black dress.

Loved the colors ... the emerald and purple mixing with the blacks and charcoal greys. A bright start to the new season!
Thursday February 6

Today is the official opening of Fashion Week. Oh, how I wish the snow surrounding the curbs would disappear. It looks revolting, embarrassing for New York to look so dirty to foreign press and national stores arriving for the shows.

Ugh!!
The first shows were at Lincoln Center, which is about to lose its position as the center of the collections seasonally. Rumor has it that until 2017 when the real center (so they say) is built, Chelsea Piers will be their home. What a potential nightmare. Hudson River locale with only one exit. Might have to live on a houseboat for the week! But this is just a rumor.

Lincoln Center, in the meantime, does not look like the circus it did in the past. Security for entrance is tighter; and there are three different black lines to get clearance for entry ... and then the long line for actual seated entry! But I am still happy here. It is easy for me as an Upper East Sider. The designers, on the other hand, do not feel it suits their individual personalities, and I guess I can understand that for those who deserve it! The diversity will be interesting. Thank god there is UBER; they will be very busy!

BCBGMAXARIA
Was the first show this morning. They (the Azrias) are celebrating their 25th anniversary. I remember when they were a rather hippie collection from California. Now they are almost staid and mature. They are back to their name "bon chic, bon gout" (hope it isn't bonne chic, bonne gout), meaning good style, good taste. Indeed the collection was. Mid-calf length, loose, unstructured, color blocked neutral, nothing jarring. Loose fitting, comfortable, probably very easy to wear. Good layering pieces.
Happy anniversary!
BCBGMAXARIA Fall 2014 Collection ...
CREATURES OF THE WIND
Sadly, I missed this collection. The designers are young and fresh. Their fabrics are newsy. They created some super coats and some great velvet pieces. VELVET is going to be very very strong this season judging by day 1!!!!
CREATURES OF THE WIND Fall 2014 Collection ...
Remember the name and the designers, Shane Gabler and Christopher Peters. Their first collection was shown in 2011. They both are graduates of the Art Institute of Chicago. They have had some good press and will continue to gather more. I know I want to see more of them and never miss their show again!
Shane Gabler and Christopher Peters.
TADASHI SHOJI
Tadashi was born and raised in Japan. He now lives in Pasadena (where he designs costumes for the royal court at the Tournament of Roses! I just love that fact). He worked for Mr. Blackwell in Los Angeles for many years (not only does that date him, but it dates me as well), but he has become a master at evening wear. His cut velvets, laser cut suedes, and crewel embroidery are very special. The clothes are for the most past in good taste. I wish I could have edited his shoes, which were ankle strapped suede pumps, and given his show some UP music.
TADASHI SHOJI Fall 2014 Collection.
His opening flame red laser cut micro suede sleeveless sheath was a knock-out as was the long dress in the same fabric with long sleeves (he knows some of his customers do not want to show their arms). His ivory nude wooly lace circular skirted dress was great as was his long column in the same fabric.

The closing velvets were super!
TADASHI SHOJI Fall 2014 Collection ...


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